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L'Oreal introduces NeoGenic with Stemoxydine to target hypoxic scalp follicles

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In September 2012, cosmetics company L’Oreal will introduce a new development in bio-technology that’s designed to not only stop hair loss, but also stimulate greater density and new growth. The product is called Neogenic, and the implications are very promising for the millions who suffer from hair loss and pattern baldness.

A step up from Aminexil

Previously in the battle for hair restoration, L’Oreal introduced a line of hair loss prevention products based on a synthetic molecule called Aminexil. The product improves the anchored strength of hair by acting on the collagen structure that surrounds the follicles—thereby keeping more of it on your head, and less on your comb or brush and down the drain.

However, the second-generation molecule created for Neogenic aims to actually produce thicker hair, and may even stimulate hair growth in areas where the follicles have shut down.

How Neogenic works

The latest development from L’Oreal is another synthetic molecule, with a stunning new approach. Called stemoxydine, this active ingredient works to counteract hypoxia—a condition that’s known to contribute to hair loss and balding. Hypoxia is a decrease or deprivation in oxygen supply. The condition can be serious, such as with generalized hypoxia, which limits oxygen intake throughout the body. But hair loss is a symptom of tissue hypoxia that affects the scalp—it’s been proven that hair follicles without growth are surrounded by oxygen-deficient microvasculature.

Stemoxydine targets this condition, attempting to increase oxygen levels in the tiny vascular structures of the scalp. The molecule acts upon hair-derived stem cells, improving their regenerative potential and maintaining function so new growth can occur.

Miracle or snake oil? Clinical trial results

Neogenic is the first hair growth product in quite some time to come with clinically proven effectiveness. The product has undergone patenting and testing through both in vitro models and live clinical studies, and results have been highly encouraging.

In a double-blind study of 100 men between the ages of 18 and 55, a once-a-day application of Neogenic was found to increase hair density by 4 percent. This may not sound like a lot, percentage-wise, but when you consider the actual numbers, 4 percent represents an average of 1700 new hairs.

Neogenic not only thickened hair, it also “woke up” follicles that had been dormant and stimulated new growth.

How to use it, and what it will cost

L’Oreal will debut the new product in September, at first available in France, where the company is headquartered. At its release, Neogenic will only be available in lotion form. The product should be rubbed into the scalp once a day, and results may be seen in as little as one month.

The debut price for a 24-pack supply, or one month of treatments, will be 90 euros—which equates to around US$110. Though the price tag is a bit steep, it’s likely to come down in time.

L’Oreal also plans to introduce other products featuring stemoxidyne as an active ingredient, including mousses and shampoos, in the near future.


Susan Thompson writes regularly on health topics for a variety of magazines and websites.


Unfortunately, L'Oreal's new product seems to be targeting a proposed mechanism for hair loss that to date, remains unproven. We know that the primary cause of hair loss in men and women is not poor blood flow or poor 'oxygenation' of the scalp. [Having performed 7,000+ hair transplants, I can tell you that even 100% bald scalp bleeds and heals well.]  In men, the primary trigger for hair loss is the detrimental effect of DHT (dihydrotestosterone) in the bloodstream.  Current research shows that DHT causes hair follicles to miniaturize according to a patient's genetic susceptibility. And, increases in 'density'--or the absolute numbers of hairs per area of scalp--once hair follcicles are dead and gone is not likely. However, if the product does in fact improve the length, caliber or pigmentation or another quality of thinning hair, this change should be able to be easily measured in 90 days with a HairCheck(TM) measurement. HairCheck is a scientific cross-sectional bundle measurement which can accurately track very small changes in hair caliber or density.  Time will tell whether the 'scientific-sounding' Neogenic with Stemoxydine will be a helpful addition to a hair loss treatment regimen which might include minoxidil (otc or prescription versions like Formula 82M), laser therapy, finasteride/propecia and hair transplantation. --Dr Alan Bauman, M.D.  Diplomate, American Board of Hair Restoration Surgery

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